Plumbing FAQ for Metro Atlanta Homeowners

When two or more toilets back up at the same time, the problem is almost never the toilets. It points to a blockage in a shared drain line or the main sewer line. Our plumbers trace the backup to the affected line, then clear it at the best access point. Catching this early prevents sewage from reaching other fixtures.

Sometimes the toilet itself is the best access point to the blocked line. We remove the toilet, run a drain snake directly into the line, and clear the clog. Then we reset the toilet with a new wax seal. This approach lets us reach blockages that a small auger through the bowl cannot.

A soft tissue blockage is a clog made of paper products, wipes, and similar material. These build up over time until the line closes off. So-called “flushable” wipes are a top cause. They do not break down like toilet paper. Stick to flushing toilet paper only.

A clean out is a capped access point to your sewer line. It lets a plumber snake the line without pulling fixtures or going through the roof. Clean outs are usually in the yard, near the foundation, or in a parking lot for commercial buildings. If you do not know where yours is, we can locate it during a service call.

Our commercial drain snakes reach well past 80 feet. On a recent job we cleared one line at about 40 feet and a main building line at about 86 feet. Distance depends on the equipment, the pipe layout, and the type of blockage.

Standard drain calls carry no warranty. Drain cleaning clears the blockage that exists at the time of service. It cannot fix a damaged or failing pipe, and it cannot control what goes down the line tomorrow. Some cable jobs include a 30 day warranty, and when one applies, your invoice states it. If your line has a break, a separation, or root intrusion, clogs will return no matter how well the line was snaked. That is why we recommend a permanent repair when we find pipe damage.

Separate problems are separate calls. For example, a clogged bathroom line and a blocked main building line are two different issues, even if we find them on the same visit. Each requires its own diagnosis, equipment, and work. We explain the scope and pricing for each before we start.

Recurring backups almost always mean pipe damage, not bad luck. A separated, cracked, or bellied pipe catches waste as it flows past. The debris builds until the line blocks again. Snaking restores flow for a while, but the damage keeps collecting new material. A camera inspection or repair is the way to break the cycle.

Common causes include:

• Soil settling or shifting beneath the pipe
• Pipe age and joint wear
• Tree root intrusion at joints
• Heavy vehicle traffic above the line

Once a joint separates, waste snags on the gap and the line clogs again and again.

When the pipe itself is damaged. Snaking treats the symptom. Excavation and repair fix the cause. If you are paying for drain cleaning every few months, a one-time repair usually costs less over time and ends the backups for good. We provide a written quote before any dig.

Experienced plumbers read the signs from above ground:

• The snake hits resistance or catches at the same distance every time
• Blockages return on a predictable cycle
• Debris pulled back on the snake shows soil or pipe material
• A camera inspection confirms the exact location and condition

We measure the distance to the damage so the repair crew digs in exactly the right spot.

A snake punches a hole through the clog to restore flow. Hydro jetting uses high-pressure water to scrub the pipe walls clean, removing grease, sludge, and roots. Snaking is right for most one-time clogs. Jetting is right for grease-heavy lines, recurring buildup, and restaurants.

Everything the naked eye cannot. The camera travels the line and shows breaks, separations, bellies, roots, and buildup, along with how deep and how far out the problem sits. We use it to locate damage precisely, so a repair crew digs one hole in the right spot instead of trenching the yard.

Grease coats the pipe walls and hardens, narrowing the line a little more each month. A snake opens a channel through it, but the coating remains. Hydro jetting strips the grease off the walls. For repeat grease problems, jetting plus a change in what goes down the sink is the answer.

A belly is a sagging section of pipe where the ground has settled beneath it. Waste and water pool in the low spot instead of flowing through, causing repeat backups. Bellies cannot be fixed by cleaning. The settled section needs to be replaced and properly bedded so it cannot sink again.

Increasing frequency means something is getting worse, not just bad luck. Common causes include a pipe defect catching debris, roots growing thicker, grease narrowing the line, or poor pitch from original construction. A camera inspection identifies which one you have and what it takes to stop the cycle.

The warranty covers normal blockages. It is voided if we find roots, a broken or collapsed pipe, or a foreign object in the line. Those are pipe problems, not cleaning problems, and no amount of cabling fixes them. Grease blockages also carry no warranty because the buildup returns with use. Your invoice states the exact terms.

No. An inspection tells you the condition of your line. It does not change that condition, so there is nothing to warranty. What you get instead is proof: exact location, depth, and cause of the problem, so any repair money goes to the right spot.

Cast iron corrodes from the inside out. The bottom of the pipe erodes into a channel that catches debris, and the walls turn brittle with age. We often find that every cut into old cast iron breaks more of it. A spot repair on brittle pipe buys time at best. When cast iron starts failing, replacing the run is the fix that lasts.

Common causes include a dry trap in a rarely used fixture, a failed wax seal, an unsealed pump basin, or an unglued vent fitting. If the source will not show itself, we run a smoke test. Smoke pushed through the drain and vent system escapes exactly where the gas does, and that shows us where to fix.

Sparingly. A disposal handles small amounts of kitchen scraps, not trash-can volumes. If you have more than about a cup of waste, it belongs in the trash. Large amounts of ground food can pack the drain line further down and cause a blockage that takes serious work to clear.

We generally do not recommend chemical drain openers. They are harsh solvents, they rarely clear serious clogs, and they never clear a main line blockage. Mechanical clearing with an auger or hydro jet is the real fix. For prevention, enzyme products like Bio-Clean send sludge-eating microbes through the line to keep pipe walls clean. If you used chemicals before our visit, tell us so the technician can work safely.

Once a year works for most homes. Older homes with cast iron or clay pipes benefit from cleaning every six to twelve months. As preventive maintenance, hydro jetting every 2 to 3 years keeps buildup from ever reaching clog stage, especially with older pipes, heavy use, or trees near the sewer line.

Yes, when a licensed plumber matches the pressure to the pipe material. We camera the line first to confirm it can handle the treatment. Jetting is gentler on pipes than chemical drain openers.

Most inspections take 30 to 60 minutes. The camera head is smooth and flexible, so it passes through without scratching anything. Compare that to exploratory digging, which takes a day or more.

Yes. You receive a written report and a saved copy of the footage for your records. That documentation is useful for insurance, real estate negotiations, and comparing quotes.

Yes. A standard home inspection cannot see underground. A sewer camera catches root damage, cracks, separations, and failing pipe before you own the problem. It is one of the cheapest pieces of insurance in a home purchase.

Not always. Horizontal runs under crawl spaces and slabs fail first because they hold standing water, while vertical stacks often have life left. We evaluate each system and recommend a spot repair, a partial repipe of the failed runs, or a full replacement. The right fix for the home, not the largest job.

PVC. Modern PVC drain pipe has smooth interior walls that resist the scale and sludge buildup that kills cast iron. Installed with correct pitch, support, and venting, it drains cleanly for decades. Kitchen and laundry lines are usually the top priority because grease and lint build the heaviest sludge.

Most repairs finish within a few hours to one day. Complex replacements can take 2 to 3 days. We use trenchless methods where possible to limit digging, and we tell you the expected timeline with your quote.

Yes. We service restaurant floor drains, commercial kitchen lines, and office building plumbing. Grease-heavy commercial lines are exactly what hydro jetting was built for.

When talking about the drain system, the “main line” refers to the home/building sewer. According to the 2012 International Plumbing Code, a building sewer (aka the “main line”) is defined as:

“That part of the drainage system that extends from the end of the building drain and conveys the discharge to a public sewer, private sewer, individual sewage disposal system or other point of disposal.

Basically this means the drain pipe in your yard. When the main line is blocked you may notice backups in your tub/shower, gurgling in toilet, or water flowing out of a sewer cleanout port in your yard. Main line blockages can cause property damage and unsafe conditions. You should cease running any water and contact a plumber immediately if you have a main line blockage.

We price water line replacement in two parts: a per-foot rate for the new pipe and a directional bore price for the trenchless installation. You get both numbers in a written quote before work begins, so there are no surprises.

A full replacement runs from the water meter to the stub out at your home. That covers the new pipe, the connections at both ends, and the boring work to install it. We test the line before we finish the job.

It depends on the distance from your meter to the house. On a recent job we replaced approximately 86 feet of water service line. Longer runs cost more per the per-foot rate, which is why we measure before quoting.

Directional boring is a trenchless method for installing pipe underground. Instead of digging a trench across your property, we bore a path below the surface and pull the new line through it. It is faster, cleaner, and far less disruptive than open trenching.

No. Directional boring lets us install the new line under yards, driveways, and landscaping. On a recent job the stub out sat under bushes, so we bored the line and tied in right before the bushes. The landscaping stayed intact.

Boring wins for most properties. It protects lawns, driveways, sidewalks, and plantings, and it usually finishes faster. Open trenching can make sense on short, clear runs with nothing above the line. We look at your property and recommend the better option in your quote.

The stub out is the short section of pipe where your home’s plumbing connects to the incoming water service line. It usually sits near the foundation. During a replacement, we tie the new line into this point.

Yes. We use proper transition fittings to join new pipe to existing copper. On a recent replacement we tied the new line directly into the home’s copper stub out for a clean, code-compliant connection.

In most areas, the utility owns the line from the main to the meter. You own everything from the meter to your house. That is the section we replace. If you are not sure where your responsibility starts, we can confirm it during your estimate.

Yes. Plumbing Express backs full water service line replacement with a 7 year warranty on labor and materials we supply. The pipe itself often carries a separate 25 year manufacturer warranty on top. Unlike drain cleaning, which clears an existing problem in an old line, a replacement is new work we stand behind.

The warranty covers labor and materials supplied by Plumbing Express. Parts supplied by the customer or damage caused by others, such as later digging or construction over the line, are not covered. Ask us for the full warranty terms with your quote.

A spot repair fixes one section of an aging line. We stand behind our repair, but the rest of the old pipe is still old, so repairs carry a 1 year warranty. A full replacement is all new pipe, which is why it earns the 7 year warranty. If you replace the line soon after a repair, ask about crediting the repair toward the replacement.

We work from the evidence to the source. Depending on the situation, we use moisture testing, thermal cameras, isolation tests at the meter, and trace gas detection. Sometimes we remove a small section of drywall to get eyes on the pipe. We confirm the source before we quote the repair, so you never pay to fix the wrong thing.

A slab leak is a leaking water pipe under the concrete foundation of your home. It wastes water around the clock and can damage flooring, drywall, and the slab itself. Warning signs include warm spots on the floor, a spinning water meter with everything off, and a rising water bill. Slab leaks do not heal. The sooner we find it, the less damage it causes.

A hidden leak is the most common cause. We run an isolation test at your meter to confirm whether water is moving when nothing is on. Then we track down the source. Sometimes the answer is not a leak at all. We once traced a customer’s “leak” to a billing issue with the water department. Either way, you get a real answer.

For leak investigations and spot repairs, drywall repair is not included. We cut only what we need to reach the pipe, and we tell you that before we start. Whole home repipes are different. Those include drywall repair and spot-match painting as part of the job.

It can be either, and we sort that out on site. We locate the leak and identify the line. If it is your water service line, we repair or replace it. If it is an irrigation line, we let you know and recommend an irrigation company. We do not guess and dig.

Polybutylene is a gray plastic pipe used in homes from the late 1970s through the mid 1990s. It has a well-documented history of premature failure, leaks, and deterioration over time. If your home has polybutylene, one visible leak usually means more are coming. We recommend replacing it with a whole home repipe rather than patching it one break at a time.

It depends on the pipe material and its condition. One pinhole leak in otherwise sound copper may only need a spot repair. Repeated leaks, polybutylene, or aging copper in a slab point to a repipe. If you repipe soon after a spot repair, we credit the repair toward the repipe.

It happens often. Ceiling stains trace back to HVAC condensate lines, refrigerators, washing machines, and roof leaks as much as to plumbing. We identify the true source and tell you straight. If it is not plumbing, we point you to the right specialist instead of selling you a plumbing repair you do not need.

We plug the shower drain, fill the pan with water, and watch where it goes. If water escapes through the subfloor, the pan or liner has failed. A failed pan is not a drain problem, and in most cases the shower needs rebuilding rather than a plumbing repair. We tell you which situation you have before anyone spends money.

We quote what we can see, and we tell you upfront that hidden damage can change the scope. If we find more once the wall or ground is open, we stop, show you what we found, and price the added work before continuing. You approve every change before it happens.

We fix the plumbing. For drying, restoration, and mold remediation we refer a trusted restoration company and coordinate so the plumbing repair and cleanup do not trip over each other. Fast referrals matter here, because wet subfloors and drywall grow mold quickly.

If it is safe, shut off the water at the affected fixture or the home’s main valve, then call us. Put a bucket under contained drips and move furniture and valuables away from ceiling leaks. Every minute of flow adds damage, which is why knowing your shutoff location before you need it matters.

Turn off every faucet, appliance, and fixture, then watch your water meter. If it is still moving, water is leaving the system somewhere. If indoor fixtures check out and the meter still runs, an underground line is the likely source. It is the single most useful check you can do before calling.

It depends on the policy and the cause. Sudden, accidental leaks and the damage they cause are more likely to be covered. Slow leaks from gradual deterioration are often excluded, and the pipe repair itself frequently is not covered even when the damage is. We provide written documentation of the leak source and repair to support your claim.

Yes. Water leaking near the foundation erodes soil, undermines footings, and contributes to foundation movement over time. Wet ground along the house wall deserves urgent attention, not a wait-and-see approach.

We advise against it. Main line work involves permits, inspection requirements, contamination risk, and the chance of damaging the utility’s side of the system. Most jurisdictions require a licensed plumber for this work, and DIY repairs can create violations that surface at resale.

Tank water heaters cost less upfront and are simple to replace. Tankless units deliver endless hot water, last longer, and save space. Tankless installs cost more because they often need a larger gas line, new venting, and code upgrades. We quote both options so you can compare real numbers, not guesses.

A proper tankless install is more than hanging the unit. Ours typically includes:

• Removal and disposal of your old water heater
• New gas line sized for the unit, with shutoff valve and gas whip
• Code-compliant venting
• Isolation valves for future service
• A new thermal expansion tank where code requires it

We test everything with you before we leave.

Distance. Water sits and cools in the pipes between the heater and your fixtures. A recirculation system keeps hot water moving so it arrives in seconds. Many tankless units offer built-in recirculation pumps, and a comfort valve at the far fixture completes the loop.

Yes. Tankless units should be flushed regularly to clear mineral scale from the heat exchanger. Skipping maintenance shortens the unit’s life and can void manufacturer warranty coverage. We offer annual tankless maintenance, and hard water homes may need it more often.

Codes change, and a replacement must meet current code. Common upgrades include a thermal expansion tank, a drain pan where code requires one, a proper T&P relief line, updated shutoff valves, and a correct gas connection. We include required upgrades in your quote upfront so there are no surprises on install day.

Yes. We work with manufacturers like Rheem, AO Smith, Rinnai, and Navien on warranty claims. If the manufacturer covers the part or unit, you pay only for what the warranty does not cover. We handle the diagnosis, the calls with tech support, and the replacement.

It depends on bathrooms, occupants, and how your household uses hot water. Local code can also set minimums by home size, and a four bedroom home often requires at least a 50 gallon tank. Commercial kitchens have BTU requirements set by the health inspector. We size the unit to your actual demand, not just what fits the closet.

It depends where. A leaking fitting or valve above the tank is usually repairable. Water from the tank body means the liner has ruptured, and the heater needs replacement. Corrosion on top of the unit often traces back to a leaking fitting above it. We find the source before recommending anything.

It depends on the unit type, size, location, and what code upgrades your setup needs. Tank replacements cost less than tankless conversions, which often require a larger gas line and new venting. We quote exact numbers in writing before any work starts, and we can price both tank and tankless options so you can compare.

Each code points to a specific fault. Common ones we see include code 10 or 110 for venting and airflow problems, code 11 or 12 for ignition and flame failure, and code 63 for recirculation issues like air in the line. Some codes clear with maintenance, others need parts. We diagnose the code, work with the manufacturer when needed, and fix the cause rather than just resetting the unit.

Tank water heaters typically last 8 to 12 years. Tankless units can last 20 or more with regular maintenance. If your tank heater is past 10 years, plan its replacement on your schedule instead of waiting for the failure to pick the date, because tanks usually fail by leaking.

An old unit that has never been flushed can fail from the service itself. Descaling a neglected heat exchanger can expose leaks that scale was hiding, and relighting an old unit’s pilot does not guarantee it stays lit. We tell you the risk before touching the unit, and on units past a certain age or condition, replacement is the honest recommendation.

The temperature and pressure relief valve opens when pressure gets too high. A dripping T&P is a symptom, not the problem. The usual causes are a failed thermal expansion tank or high home water pressure from a bad PRV. Replacing the valve without fixing the pressure just moves the drip to a new valve.

We can relight pilots and often do. If the pilot will not stay lit, the thermocouple or gas control valve is usually failing, and on older units that repair cost needs weighing against replacement. One exception: units vented into unsafe or improper flues cannot be relit for liability reasons until the venting is corrected.

120 degrees. It is hot enough for the home, gentle on the unit, and safer against scalding, especially for kids and older adults. Higher settings accelerate scale buildup and shorten unit life.

Usually a failing heating element, wiring issues, or the unit not being on a dedicated circuit. Electric water heaters need their own properly sized circuit. We diagnose the plumbing side and tell you if an electrician is needed for the wiring.

Sometimes. Tankless units and recirculation pumps need outlets, and some electric units require panel or wiring upgrades. We handle everything on the plumbing and gas side and tell you exactly what electrical work is needed before the job starts, so there are no surprises.

Difficult access, such as attic or second-story locations, can add a fee for the added labor and safety measures. Your written quote includes it upfront. Nothing gets added after the fact.

Sometimes. Code requires a drain pan in certain locations, most commonly when the heater sits in an attic or above living space. We install a pan wherever code calls for one, and many customers add one elsewhere as cheap insurance. Know its limits, though: a major tank failure can overwhelm the pan drain.

In Georgia, natural gas wins. Gas heaters recover faster, so they deliver more hot water, and they cost about half as much per gallon heated. Homes without gas service should go electric, since propane costs far more to run.

The Rheem Professional Classic Plus Series Atmospheric. It is professional grade, made in North America, natural gas powered, and includes a premium anode rod to extend tank life. Most homes take the 40 or 50 gallon size.

Age and failure type decide it. A unit under 8 years old with an isolated component failure is usually a strong repair candidate. A tank over 10 to 12 years old, or one showing internal corrosion or a cracked tank body, makes more financial sense to replace. We assess the unit and give you both numbers before you decide.

Sometimes. Utility rebates and efficiency incentives come and go, and in some years they have been worth up to several hundred dollars on qualifying high-efficiency units. Eligibility depends on the program and your individual circumstances, so ask about current offers when you get your quote and confirm tax questions with your tax professional.

You should service your hot water heater at least once a year. Regular maintenance helps prevent breakdowns, improves efficiency, and extends the lifespan of your unit. During a service, a professional plumber will typically inspect the system, flush the tank to remove sediment buildup, check the pressure relief valve, and assess other components to ensure everything is working properly. If you have hard water or use your heater more frequently, you may want to consider servicing it every 6 months to keep it running optimally.

A Plumbing Express repipe is the complete replacement of the interior water pipes in your home. We also install new shutoff valves, a pressure regulator valve, new hose bibbs, a new thermal expansion tank, and emergency stop valves at fixtures. We protect your home with plastic and drop cloths, and we minimize drywall cutting while we work.

Yes. Repipes include repairing the drywall we removed, plus spot-match painting. You are not left with open walls or a painting project. This is different from leak investigations, where drywall repair is not included.

Yes, wherever the jurisdiction requires it, and all work complies with the plumbing code. Your proposal states who pulls the permit. Piping run through attics is insulated with a code-compliant thermal blanket, following approved engineered drawings.

The water service line is separate, but we often replace both together. If your interior pipes and your service line are the same failing material, such as polybutylene, replacing both at once protects the whole system and saves a second mobilization.

Shower risers and temperature relief lines are excluded from the standard repipe scope. Everything else on the interior water distribution system is replaced, including valves, hose bibbs, the PRV, and the expansion tank. Your written scope lists inclusions and exclusions so there is no confusion later.

Yes. Our repipe-only service replaces all the piping and leaves wall restoration to you. It suits homeowners who are already renovating or want to manage their own drywall and paint. The full-service repipe includes drywall repair and spot-match painting.

A typical home needs 15 to 35 drywall cuts, depending on fixture count and the home’s design. Because our repipe includes drywall repair, our plumbers have every reason to keep cuts to a minimum, and they do.

Almost all of our customers do. We restore water every evening and clean up the protective plastic daily, so evenings stay livable. Anyone with a severe dust sensitivity or serious medical condition should plan to stay elsewhere during the work.

We can give a close ballpark by phone if you are under time pressure. An exact quote takes a free on-site visit, because fixture count, foundation type, and wall finishes drive the price. The visit also lets us plan the job, so install day goes smoothly.

Yes. Polybutylene inspections and quotes are free. They are especially useful when buying or selling a home, since gray poly affects the value and the negotiation.

We do not jackhammer your slab. Our repipe bypasses the slab pipes entirely and abandons them in place, so your home is no longer exposed to slab leaks. A polybutylene service line that penetrates the slab can be bypassed as a separate item in the scope of work.

One team handles everything from the first pipe to the final paint. You do not coordinate a plumber, then a drywall sub, then a painter. Plumbing Express manages the full scope under one fixed-price quote, with one point of accountability. When we leave, your home looks like we were never there.

The warranty covers our workmanship and the manufacturer’s materials, not things outside our control: freezing, corrosion, normal wear and tear, or damage from work done by someone else after we finish. Everyday consumable parts like washers and aerators are not included either. The full terms are in your signed proposal.

Reach out and we schedule an inspection, with the diagnostic fee waived on warranty visits. If it is a covered workmanship issue, we make it right at no cost to you for that portion of the work.

Every repipe gives you a completely new supply system, fully independent of the old one. We remove old pipe where the new line follows the same path, which saves extra drywall cuts. Where the new route deviates, we drain the old pipe down and abandon it in place.

Yes. The standard turn-key repipe includes new hose bibs plus a dedicated isolation valve for each one. You can shut off an outdoor faucet to service, replace, or winterize it without turning off water to the whole home.

Yes. The standard turn-key proposal includes drywall repair, texture matching, and paint blending at every access opening. Paint is listed separately on the proposal for transparency, so homeowners who plan to repaint or use their own painter can remove it.

Scope, not price competition. A quote that excludes drywall repair looks cheaper until you hire the drywall contractor separately, and then it usually is not. Compare what each quote includes: valves, hose bibs, PRV, expansion tank, drywall, texture, and paint. Our quote puts all of it in one fixed number.

Fixture count predicts cost better than square footage, because it reflects how many supply lines get replaced. A large home with two bathrooms can cost less than a smaller home with three bathrooms and a dedicated laundry room. The in-home visit settles it precisely.

Yes, especially when it replaces a known problem system like polybutylene or failing copper. It removes a common inspection flag, strengthens your negotiating position, and eliminates a deal-killer before listing. The transferable warranties carry real weight with buyers.

A 50 percent deposit is collected the day the job starts. The balance is due when drywall, paint blending, and punch-out items are finished. Minor touch-ups after that are handled under warranty on a follow-up visit, not held over your final payment.

Yes. We can take full payment at closing when the closing attorney provides verification and the closing date falls within 30 days of work completion. Raise it when you schedule the estimate, and the arrangement is confirmed in writing before work begins.

A credit hands the buyer money and leaves the bad pipe in place at closing. A completed repipe resolves the issue, removes it from disclosure, and gives the buyer transferable warranties from day one. Buyers pay more for certainty, so the completed repipe is usually the stronger position, even at similar dollar amounts.

Choosing Plumbing Express means partnering with a team that values precision, transparency, and customer care above all. Our commitment to you includes:

• Accuracy and Transparency: By evaluating your home’s plumbing system in person, we ensure that our quote reflects the true scope of work required. This attention to detail helps prevent unexpected costs, aligning your expectations with the project realities from the start.
• Customized Solutions: Each home is unique, and so are its plumbing needs. Our on-site assessment allows us to be prepared specifically for your home, ensuring that the repipe process is as smooth and non-intrusive as possible.
• Trust and Confidence: Our direct engagement with you, the homeowner, is designed to build trust and confidence in our capabilities. This face-to-face interaction allows you to ask questions, voice concerns, and receive immediate, knowledgeable feedback based on our repiping expertise.
• Educational Opportunity: We view each on-site quote as a chance to educate our customers about their plumbing systems and our process. This knowledge ensures you are well-informed about the repiping process and comfortable that you know how to prepare for it.
• Thorough Planning and Communication: Utilizing advanced tools like Service Titan, we meticulously document every detail of your project, ensuring seamless communication and coordination among our team. This thorough planning translates into efficient, quality service tailored to your specific needs.

We are exceptionally skilled at matching and blending ceiling textures including popcorn ceilings (coarse, medium, and fine textures) and stipple ceilings. Our work is exceptional and your attention will not be drawn to our access areas.

An interior pipe replacement is a replacement of the home’s potable water distribution system. The potable water distribution system is defined as: Pipes within a structure that convey water from the water service pipe to the points of utilization. Our standard interior repipe includes replacement of all pipes from the interior (main) shutoff valve to all the fixtures. Our repipe service differs from other plumbing companies because we repair the home finishes such as drywall, paint, ceiling texture by default as specified in our Interior Repipe Agreement.

Polybutylene, or gray poly, is a plastic pipe used widely in home construction for about two decades. It is no longer allowed in residential plumbing because it degrades from exposure to the disinfectants in municipal drinking water.

There is no reliable clock. The earliest failures came from defective fittings. The current wave comes from chemical breakdown of the pipe itself. If your home still has gray poly, be prepared for a leak to start at any time.

Watch for wet spots on walls or floors, a mildew smell, and a slowly climbing water bill. Poly leaks usually start as quiet seepage, not bursts, so the signs are easy to miss.

Shut off the water when you leave home for extended periods. Check your pressure with a gauge. Static pressure should never exceed 80 PSI, and lower is better with poly. Treat exposed poly gently and avoid moving or jostling it.

Lower pressure can delay leaks in degraded poly, and high pressure speeds them up. But lower pressure also weakens your plumbing’s performance, and no pressure setting stops the chemical breakdown. It buys time, nothing more.

No. If you are asking, do not attempt the repair yourself. Poly repairs use push-type fittings, all poly repairs are unreliable, and every patch should be watched for failure. Call a professional plumber.

A manifold is a central distribution chamber with one water inlet and an outlet for each fixture, giving every fixture its own shutoff. Manifolds were common in poly homes and are still used with PEX systems. They are a new-construction feature, not a retrofit.

The biggest one: poly with copper fittings will not leak. Copper fittings do fail less often than plastic ones, but the gray pipe itself deteriorates the same either way. Fitting material does not slow the chemical breakdown of the pipe.

Experienced realtors usually advise replacing it before listing. Poly gets flagged on most inspections where it is present, and sellers then face one of three outcomes: a price reduction, a repair credit negotiation, or a repipe condition before closing. Replacing the pipe before listing removes the issue from the inspection report entirely. Homes free of major defects close faster and at higher prices.

Look under sinks, near the water heater, and where pipes exit the slab. Polybutylene is gray, flexible plastic, often stamped “PB2110” or “Qest.” Homes built or plumbed between 1978 and 1995 are in the window. If you are not sure, we confirm the pipe type at no charge during a free in-home visit.

Not always, but in Metro Atlanta homes from 1978 to 1995, gray flexible pipe usually is. CPVC is cream or light yellow. PEX is white, red, or blue. The stamp settles it: “PB2110” or “Qest” means polybutylene.

Qest is a brand name for polybutylene pipe made by Quest Chemical. It carries the same failure risk and the same replacement urgency as any other polybutylene. If your pipe is stamped “Qest,” you have poly.

Not outright. It was pulled from the market after major class action litigation in the 1990s, when the failure pattern proved systemic and unrepairable by standard means. Any original polybutylene still in service today is well past its intended life.

Yes, and you are in the better position. Pipe that has not failed yet gets replaced on your schedule, by appointment, with minimal disruption. Pipe that fails inside a wall picks its own moment. Most homeowners who patch a poly leak end up repiping within 12 to 24 months anyway, after more repairs and water damage along the way.

Over time polybutylene pipes deteriorate from the inside due to chemical reactions with compounds used to sanitize our drinking water. The poly becomes brittle and eventually develops tiny fissures. These fissures connect together and eventually form a small crack that water will slowly escape through.

A number of factors determine the cost of a pipe replacement in your home. These factors include the size of the home, the number of plumbing fixtures, ceiling and wall finishes, the type of foundation (slab, crawlspace, basement), and the materials used. Prices offered by a repipe specialist (such as Plumbing Express) are often much lower than people expect after having had an estimate from a retail service plumbing company.

When replacing polybutylene pipes, material choice matters, but quality and installation matter even more.

At Plumbing Express, we primarily install FlowGuard Gold® CPVC and PEX-A piping systems. Both materials are code-approved and have proven to perform well when installed correctly using matched, name-brand fittings and valves.

• CPVC (FlowGuard Gold®) has a long track record and excellent resistance to corrosion.
• PEX-A offers flexibility and freeze resistance and is a strong option when high-quality materials and proper methods are used.

Because we offer one of the best warranties in the market, we do not use generic or low-quality imported piping. We also avoid mixing systems or relying on subcontractors who bring their own materials, common sources of premature failures and repeat repipes.

Bottom line:
We install piping systems we’re willing to stand behind long-term, using proven materials and best-practice installation and not shortcuts.

If you’re replacing polybutylene and want help choosing the right option for your home, we’re happy to walk you through it.

Homes in the same subdivision share the same water supply, construction year, and pipe specification, so they corrode on nearly the same timeline. When one home on the street starts leaking, the rest typically follow within one to five years. A neighbor’s leak is a fair early warning for yours.

No pipe is freezeproof, but PEX-A comes closest. It can expand up to three times its diameter in a freeze and return to shape after thawing, where copper and CPVC crack or burst. A pipe frozen solid in a confined space can still fail, so insulation and winterizing still matter.

Standard PVC is drain pipe. It is not rated for hot water or supply-line pressure. CPVC goes through an added chlorination process that raises heat tolerance to roughly 200 degrees and earns the pressure rating for hot and cold supply service. The two need different fittings and cements, and they are not interchangeable. Any company quoting standard PVC for supply lines should raise a red flag.

That reputation comes from old, cured CPVC cut with the wrong tool. CPVC hardens as it cures in service, and a ratchet-style PEX cutter can shatter it. The same hardening raises its pressure rating over decades. A newly installed CPVC repipe is not brittle, and cured pipe cuts cleanly with a tubing cutter or fine-tooth blade.

Three reasons. Imported look-alike pipe and fittings made to lower standards are a documented problem in the supply chain. A US manufacturer answers to US courts and consumer protection law, which makes warranty claims enforceable. And ASTM, NSF, and code compliance are enforced through the whole domestic production chain. Uponor ProPEX is made in Minnesota; FlowGuard Gold CPVC is made by Lubrizol in Ohio.

Yes. We install customer-supplied fixtures every week. The labor carries a 90 day warranty, but the product itself does not. If a fixture you supplied fails, the manufacturer covers the part, not Plumbing Express. Fixtures we supply carry our full 1 year labor and material warranty.

The cartridge inside the valve is usually worn out. Replacing the cartridge fixes most dripping or running showers without replacing the whole valve. If the valve body itself has failed, or parts are no longer made for it, we quote a valve replacement.

Yes, and it does it quietly. We have measured homes at 120 PSI, double the healthy range. High pressure wears out cartridges, fill valves, supply lines, and water heaters ahead of schedule. If your fixtures keep failing, we check your pressure and the pressure regulator valve first.

A jam means something is stuck and the motor hums. We can often free it on the spot. A failed disposal will not respond at all or leaks from the body. We supply and install new disposals with a one year labor and material warranty.

Gurgling usually means a venting or drainage problem. Smells often come from buildup in the drain, a dry trap, or a failing air admittance valve. Rarely used fixtures dry out and let sewer gas in. Running water in them occasionally keeps the trap sealed.

Yes. We connect dishwashers to the water supply and drain, install ice maker boxes with proper fittings, and replace supply lines. If your dishwasher drains through the disposal, we make sure the connection is correct and leak free.

When the valve body itself has failed, parts are no longer made for it, or it is an outdated design. A cartridge swap fixes most drips. But old three-handle valves, obscure brands, and valves with damaged seats need replacement. We quote both paths when both are possible.

Yes. We replace the old valve with a modern single-handle unit and cover the old handle holes with a repair plate. You get modern temperature control and parts that are actually available when service is needed someday.

Because they are the parts that fail next. Old angle stops seize or drip, and aged supply lines burst. When we are already working on a fixture, replacing its worn shutoffs costs little and prevents the flood call later. We only recommend it when the parts show age or damage.

A minor rebuild replaces the common wear parts, usually the fill valve and flapper. A major rebuild goes deeper and includes the flush valve and tank-to-bowl hardware. If we start a minor rebuild and find a bigger problem, you pay the difference, not a second full charge.

A ghost flush is when your toilet refills on its own with nobody using it. Water is slowly escaping from the tank into the bowl, usually past a worn flapper or a flush valve that no longer seals. It wastes water day and night. A rebuild fixes it.

Usually a failed wax seal, a broken toilet flange, or both. Caulk around the base can hide the damage for a long time while water rots the floor. We pull the toilet, inspect the flange, repair what is broken, and reset the toilet with a new seal.

A broken flange or an uneven floor. A rocking toilet works the wax seal loose, which leads to leaks. We repair the flange and shim the toilet level so the seal lasts.

Yes. Installation includes a new wax seal, new closet bolts, and haul-away of the old toilet. The labor carries a 90 day warranty, and the toilet itself is covered by its manufacturer. Flange or drain repairs, if needed, are quoted separately once we see the condition.

No. Augering a toilet clears the clog that exists that day. We cannot control what gets flushed after we leave, so blockage calls carry no warranty. If the same toilet keeps clogging, the problem is usually deeper in the drain, and we recommend a camera inspection.

Water is escaping the tank, so the fill valve keeps refilling it. The flapper, fill valve, or flush valve is usually worn out. A running toilet can waste hundreds of gallons a day and shows up on your water bill. A rebuild with the right parts stops it. If rebuilds keep failing, check your water pressure, because high PSI destroys fill valves early.

Yes. We rebuild and replace Sloan flushometers on commercial toilets and urinals, and we match the correct GPF rating so the fixture flushes properly. A flushometer that has been rebuilt repeatedly and still runs constantly is usually at end of life, and we will tell you when replacement beats another rebuild.

Between roughly 50 and 70 PSI. We regularly find homes at 95, 100, even 120 PSI. High pressure feels great in the shower and quietly destroys everything else: cartridges, supply lines, fill valves, and water heaters. Low pressure usually points to a failing regulator or a restriction in the line.

The PRV sits on your main line and knocks street pressure down to a safe level for your home. PRVs wear out over time. When one fails, pressure climbs or hums and fixtures start failing early. We replace the PRV and set your pressure to a safe level, then verify it with a gauge.

When a water heater heats water, the water expands. In a closed system that pressure has nowhere to go, so it stresses the tank, the T&P valve, and your pipes. The expansion tank absorbs it. Code requires one, and we include it when we replace water heaters and PRVs.

Usually in the basement, garage, or a utility closet, on the line entering the home. In some homes it hides behind drywall or was never installed. We make repeated visits just to show homeowners their shutoff. Find yours before you need it, or ask us to point it out on any service call.

Check pressure first. Failing cartridges, running toilets, and burst supply lines across the whole house usually share one cause: high pressure from a dead PRV, often with no expansion tank. Fixing fixtures without fixing pressure means fixing them again.

The main shutoff kills water to the whole house. Emergency stops control single fixtures, so a toilet or faucet repair does not shut down the home. If your valves are stuck, corroded, or missing, we replace them. Working valves turn a flood into an inconvenience.

Common signs are a dripping T&P valve on the water heater, pressure spikes when the heater runs, and a tank that sounds full when tapped or leaks from the valve stem. Expansion tanks are wear items. When one fails, we check your PRV and home pressure at the same time, because the three work as a system.

Almost always because a hose stayed attached. The hose traps water in the bib, the water freezes, and the pipe splits inside the wall. The break often hides until spring, when you turn the bib on and water pours into the wall. Disconnect hoses before the first freeze.

Disconnect all hoses, shut the interior isolation valve for each bib if you have one, and open the bib outside to drain it. No isolation valve? We can install one, or replace standard bibs with frost-free models that shut off inside the warm wall.

Shut off the main water valve, then call us. Every minute of flow adds damage. This is exactly why we tell every customer to know where their shutoff is before winter. If your main valve is stuck or missing, put replacing it at the top of the list.

Frozen water expands with enough force to split copper and blow fittings apart. If you catch a frozen pipe early, shut off the water and warm the area gradually. Never use a torch. Then have the line inspected. Freeze damage is often hidden and shows up when pressure returns.

Below the local frost line, at the depth your plumbing code requires. We find lines buried just a few inches down, and those lines freeze and cannot be warrantied. If your line is shallow, replacing it at proper depth is the permanent fix.

Pipes in exterior walls, attics, crawlspaces, and garages. Lines feeding hose bibs are the most common casualty. Insulating exposed runs, sealing drafts, and letting a faucet drip during hard freezes all reduce risk. Homes repiped with PEX-A get extra protection because it resists freeze damage better than rigid pipe.

Leave the home, avoid switches and flames, and call your gas utility’s emergency line from outside. Once the utility confirms it is safe, call us to find and fix the problem. If we smell gas on any service call, we shut the supply to the affected appliance immediately for your safety.

A whole home gas pressure test checks your gas distribution lines for leaks. We also run a gas sniffer over fixtures and connections. The test covers the piping. If the leak is inside an appliance itself, that repair belongs to an appliance technician, and we tell you exactly which fixture failed.

Yes. We run new gas lines for ranges, cooktops, generators, fire pits, and tankless water heaters. That includes tying into your main line with proper shutoff valves, sizing the pipe for the appliance’s BTU demand, and pressure testing before we turn anything on.

Gas appliances are rated in BTUs, and the pipe must deliver enough volume to feed them. Tankless water heaters in particular demand more gas than the tank heaters they replace. An undersized line starves the unit and causes error codes. We size the line to the appliance, per code.

A gas whip is the flexible connector between the pipe and the appliance. Old-style valves and worn whips are common leak points. When we work on a gas appliance, we replace outdated valves and connectors so the whole connection meets current code.

Often, yes. Permit requirements vary by jurisdiction and scope, and Georgia restricts gas piping work to licensed professionals. We handle permitting whenever it applies, as part of the job. DIY gas work risks leaks, fire, and carbon monoxide, and it is not something the law leaves open to homeowners.

Black iron pipe, CSST flexible steel tubing, and copper in some cases. The choice depends on your home, the appliance, and local code. Underground runs are buried to code depth with tracer wire so the line can be located later.

Most installations take 2 to 6 hours, depending on run length and whether the line goes underground. Repairs usually finish in a single visit, often within 1 to 6 hours.

Yes, for safety. We shut the gas during the work, test everything when finished, and restore service before we leave. We verify with a pressure test, then a follow-up check, before calling the job done.

If your home has a bathroom or laundry below the main sewer line, gravity cannot carry the waste out. A sewer ejector pump collects it in a basin and pumps it up to the sewer line. If your basement fixtures back up while upstairs drains work fine, the pump is the first suspect.

Because the basement runs on the ejector pump, not gravity. When the pump fails, everything below grade backs up while upstairs stays normal. We pull and inspect the pump, the check valve, and the basin, and we replace what has failed.

Usually an unsealed basin lid or a failing seal. Sewer gas escapes through any gap. We reseal or replace the lid, and if the smell persists, a smoke test finds the leak. Roots growing into the basin and worn check valves cause similar problems.

We install a quality half horsepower pump, such as Zoeller, with a new check valve and shutoff valve, seal the basin lid, and test full cycles before we leave. We also correct bad setups we find, like discharge lines aimed at the inlet, which cause tissue buildup and repeat failures.

The check valve keeps pumped waste from falling back into the basin after each cycle. Without one, the pump moves the same water over and over, wearing itself out early. We install the check valve where it can be serviced, with a shutoff so future pump swaps are clean and simple.

Most last about 7 to 10 years, and daily heavy use shortens that. Warning signs include longer run times, noise, water returning to the basin, and smells. Replacing a tired pump on your schedule beats replacing a dead one during a backup.

They do different jobs. A sump pump removes groundwater and rainwater from a basement or crawlspace to prevent flooding. A sewer ejector pump lifts wastewater from below-grade toilets, sinks, and laundry up to the sewer line. Many homes have both. If you are not sure which you have, we can identify it on a service visit.

Heavy rain pushes groundwater against your foundation and into the basement or crawlspace. A sump pump detects rising water and pumps it away automatically. Without one, you risk flooding, foundation damage, mold, and ruined belongings.

Yes, if your basement matters. The storms that flood basements are the same storms that knock out power, which is exactly when a plug-in pump goes silent. A battery backup keeps the pump running through the outage.

Sometimes, depending on the jurisdiction and the scope of the work. We handle permitting when it applies and complete all work to local code, so the installation is fully compliant either way.

Repair makes sense for a faulty float switch, a clogged discharge line, or a minor component. Replace when the motor burns out, the impeller breaks, or the unit is past 7 to 10 years old and failing repeatedly. An annual checkup before storm season is the cheapest insurance either way.

Yes. We install whole-house filtration and conditioning systems, such as the Halo 5 and H2 Zero, that remove chlorine, improve taste, and protect your plumbing from scale buildup. Hard water shortens the life of water heaters, cartridges, and fixtures. Filtration protects the investment you just made in them. Halo systems carry a 10 year manufacturer warranty plus our 1 year labor warranty.

The Moen Flo monitors your home’s water use and shuts the water off automatically when it detects a leak. It catches the burst supply line at 2 a.m. that nobody is awake for. We install and set them up, and we include one as a courtesy on many whole home repipes.

Yes. Whole-house filters need periodic flushing and filter changes, and conditioning systems have settings we configure to your usage. We service what we install.

Yes. We offer several payment options, including credit cards, payment at closing for real estate transactions, and financing with approved credit. Many customers finance larger jobs like water heaters, repipes, and sewer repairs. Ask your technician or our office for current options when you get your estimate.

Drain cleaning clears the blockage that exists that day. It cannot control what gets flushed tomorrow, and it cannot fix a damaged pipe. If your line has a break, a belly, or roots, clogs will return no matter how well it was cleaned. When we find pipe damage, we quote the permanent fix.

Our labor is covered for 90 days. The product is not. If a fixture you purchased fails, the manufacturer covers it, not Plumbing Express. Fixtures we supply carry our full 1 year labor and material warranty, which is why many customers let us supply the fixture.

We restore trenches to rough grade, but we are not responsible for landscaping, grass, pavers, irrigation lines, or unmarked utilities. We do our best to protect your yard, and we tell you upfront what to expect. Marking private utilities and irrigation before we dig protects both of us.

Project estimates are free, including whole home repipes and water heater installations. Repair and diagnostic visits carry a service call fee. Either way, your estimate is written and spells out the scope, the price, and the warranty before any work starts. No surprises when the job is done.

It depends on the job. Whole home repipes include drywall repair and spot-match painting. Leak investigations and spot repairs do not include drywall repair, and your quote says so clearly. We cut the minimum needed to do the work.

The common ones: home water pressure above 80 PSI with no working PRV, customer-supplied parts, work performed the way a customer insisted against our recommendation, and wear-and-tear items like flappers and hose washers. Drain warranties are voided by roots, pipe damage, or foreign objects in the line. Every exclusion that applies to your job is stated on your invoice.

Yes. If the problem turns out to be something we cannot diagnose or do not service, we often waive the fee. When you approve recommended work, ask how the fee applies, because it is frequently credited toward the job. Warranty visits on our own work carry no new fee.

A licensed plumber assesses the problem on site and sends you a written estimate, usually by email the same visit. Complex jobs, like excavations or custom installs, sometimes need office pricing, and we follow up within a day or two. Quotes spell out scope, price, warranty, and exclusions. Most quotes stay valid for 30 days.

Three common reasons: a part has to be ordered, the fix needs specialty equipment like a bore crew, or hidden conditions change the plan. When a return visit is needed, we tell you before we leave, schedule it, and do not charge a second service call fee for finishing the same job.

If it helps you decide, yes. We put our scope, warranty, and price in writing so comparisons are apples to apples. When another quote is much lower, compare what is included: code upgrades, permits, warranty length, and restoration are where cheap quotes usually cut.

Yes. We provide written estimates and documentation formatted for insurance claims, including cause-of-loss detail from our diagnosis. Tell us upfront that insurance is involved and we will write the paperwork accordingly.

Often. Our techs regularly handle small courtesy items while on site: a flapper, a supply line, an adjustment, at no charge. It is not something to count on for every visit, but taking care of customers is how we keep them.

Yes, we correct other companies’ work regularly: backward traps, wrong glue, bad venting, undersized lines. We document what we find so you have evidence if you pursue the original installer. The repair is billed as new work, since we cannot warranty or absorb another company’s mistakes.

Depends on the job, and your quote says exactly which. Some jobs include re-pouring concrete with a finished surface. Asphalt restoration is not something we do permanently, and reset pavers may not look exactly as before. We are plumbers, not masons, and we would rather tell you that upfront than surprise you after.

The utility owns the water side up to the meter and the sewer main under the street. You own the lines on your property. If we find the problem on the city side, a broken meter, debris from the main, or a street-side sewer break, we document it and tell you exactly who to call instead of charging you for work that is not yours to buy.

If we can, we will. We try to prioritize dire plumbing situations. Give us a call and we can discuss our availability with you.